Graphics card keeps running out of memory

I have turned my card as low as it can go I have uninstalled many programs and turned off many programs. every time I play the game after an hour it dumps me due to video memory running out. I had no problems ever until Season 4 started NVIDIA system information report was created on: 05/25/2024 at 07:09:13
NVIDIA app version: 10.0.0.535/p
Operating system: Microsoft Windows 11 Home, Version 10.0.22000
DirectX runtime version: DirectX 12

Graphics Card
GPU processor: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
Direct3D feature level: 12_1
CUDA cores: 1920
Graphics clock: 1680 MHz
Resizable bar: No
Memory data rate: 14.00 Gbps
Memory interface: 192-bit
Memory bandwidth: 336.048 GB/s
Total available graphics memory: 14292 MB
Dedicated video memory: 6144 MB GDDR6
System video memory: 0 MB
Shared system memory: 8148 MB
Video BIOS version: 90.06.33.00.9b
IRQ: Not used
Bus: PCI Express x16 Gen3
Device ID: 10DE 1F08 8557103C
Part number: G160 0043

Driver: Game Ready Driver - 555.85 - May 20, 2024
Display: 1920x1080,165Hz
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core Processor
RAM: 16.0 GB
Storage (3): HDD - 931.5 GB,SSD - 1.8 TB,+1 more

If this is what I think it is, your GPU isn’t running out of VRAM, it’s that D4 keeps dumping texture swaps into virtual memory and at some point Windows runs out of VM and boom, D4 is “out of memory” even though you still have available VRAM and/or system RAM. This actually started with Season 3, but has grown significantly worse in Season 4’s client.

This is solvable.

My solution involves setting the swap file to a size of 16GB (16384MB) paging file for both minimum and maximum (same value for both entries) under the swap file management in the custom settings. If you have a video card with 24GB of memory then set this to 24GB (24576MB).

Setting both minimum and maximum to the same value eliminates the system trying to “auto adjust” based on usage and helps the performance.

If you want to monitor the virtual memory, open task manager, go to the performance section, click on memory and keep tabs on the “Committed” section. That represents your available virtual memory.

If you only have 8-16GB of physical computer RAM (not GPU), and you have 8-16GB of GPU memory, then use 24GB (24576MB) for the setting.

Having a larger setting is not going to hurt anything, but it does take more space on the drive (always use the C:\ or your fastest SSD for your swap file - Do not set it up on multiple drives!)

However 16GB is plenty for most setups. That’s what I’m running for mine in fact and I have 32GB/16GB with memory/gpu.

One thing to keep in mind is that this locks that much of your boot drive as well. So 24 GB on my (currently tiny 128 GB boot SSD) isn’t feasible. It may not be feasible for some others as well depending on their available boot drive space. Granted it wouldn’t be a problem for the setup I’m going to replace this with once my back says it’s OK to move my 80 lb. Cosmos II rig out to swap and clean things up, but for now it isn’t an option, for me anyway.

Yeah, you need to clone that drive to a larger one.

Frankly I’m surprised you have a small drive for your OS! lol

Doesn’t that shorten your drive life span, the smaller it is and the demand an OS puts on it?

This is the original SSD from when I first had Windows 7 installed on this thing. It was plenty big back then. Not so much these days. When I swap to the new rig it will be cloned to a 500 GB SSD even though I won’t be using the computer for anything other than my grandpa viewing emails/youtubing (the other SSD is for macOS and will remain for MIDI conversions as Windows’ MIDI instruments suck. Massively.) Hackintosh FTW!

HWInfo64’s SMART data shows 93% drive life remaining, with just over 7 TB total writes over its lifetime so far. Probably due to not changing Windows’ default VM settings (and I shouldn’t have to if the developers know what they’re doing…).

Interesting.

I have more usage (writes) on mine and its just barely a year old. 1TB though. Still 100% though.

But the fuller the drive the faster it can wear out, I do know that much.

I also disable indexing on my SSDs to help prevent premature wear.

Take that back. 99% health right now. 10TB written.

I disabled indexing too. Got tired of it killing game performance years ago so I decided to nip that in the bud. Sadly Windows’ search function doesn’t work without indexing, just like in macOS. Sigh…

FWIW, if you want an idea of how long I’ve had this SSD, It’s a Samsung 830. Been a while. But it still powers on like a champ, probably because it’s MLC and not TLC/QLC like modern drives are, and as a result has more write endurance.

Wait.

You are still running on a SATA version???

Yeah, time to upgrade that! lol

I have been really happy with my Kingston Fury Renegade NVMe 1TB SSD. R/W 7k/6.5k (and I have had tested that speed to be at or better than spec)

Now, I do have a much older Samsung 850 Pro SATA based SSD that I got many years ago. Been running for nearly 1000 days, still 100% health and has just over 8TB written. :smiley:

Again, bad back + Cosmos II case = have to wait for back to agree before I can put my newer components in.

FWIW, you aren’t going to see that speed even with a fresh install of any modern game since game assets are more 4k random reads than 64/128k. Ironically outside of specific circumstances, a PCIe 3.0 NVMe will be nearly as fast as a PCIe 4 or 5 NVMe for games. For larger reads, more modern is better, but for most games that aren’t large sequential reads, you’ll almost never see the difference (PS5 Krakken compression scheme type affairs notwithstanding).

D4 is currently running off a Samsung 860 EVO 2 TB SSD. You want to know what’s sad? When heavily fragmented, CASC can actually bring even PCIe 4/5 NVMe down to SATA SSD speeds. Doubly so for macOS where APFS fragmentation multiplies off of CASC’s fragmentation (imagine CASC’s fragmentation, then on top of it you have a nearly identical type of fragmentation - much shorter time between necessitating reinstalls).