i looked into a PSU calculator think the Newegg one and it rated my setup for about 500ish watts. i don’t think it gave an option for the CPU cooler and possible upgrades like another M2. I am also not sure about monitor wise.
Right now monitor is a cheap one. it runs but i dont have money nor is it a priority to buy a better one atm. i do plan to get a better one for 4k gaming and a good sized one for watching tv or youtube on it.
as far as that goes im lost. only thing about PSU’s i know from my growing hobby is that that are typically rated for X wattages but that isn’t always the true wattages.
should i go gold? also what brands are good. i currently have a corsair one in my PC no huge issues with it that i know of. not entirely sure what rating or standard ( gold i think ) it is.
If you have a corsair PSU why the need for a new unit especially if the PSU calculator says you only need a 500w unit?
if you do need one;
get one that has the following
1- the connections you need
2 - the power you need
3- is well reviewed by a professional review site (Tom’s, techpowerup, kitguru, if it’s an older model you can try Jonnyguru) and uses a modern platform & topology…basically DC-DC w/LLC resonant converter which is most “gold” units and virtually everything platinum and above in efficiency.
Avoid tier lists, most are bias and created by fan boys not professionals. Even the rare few good ones may push you towards a unit whose features you may never use.
Gold efficiency is a rating done by EPRI and tested on platforms at 28c (+/- 3c) while virtually all gaming PC cases have an internal temp of over 40c while gaming. So the label is meaningless unless the PSU is tested in a hot box to get temps above 40c. A mediocre gold PS may do well in EPRI testing at room temperature but efficiency may dive once in a PC case. That is why professional reviews (not some guy sticking it in a PC or using a multi meter and saying it works) are so important.
Sometimes they contain good information. Regarding the Seasonic Focus Plus units, they did identify that they can trip OPP on high transient load GPUs.
I have the older 2017 Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w, which supposedly suffers from this, but haven’t had had any issues with it so far. But I have read a lot of Reddit users who have experienced tripping and shutdowns on these new cards.
If you look up Johnny Guru reviews of the unit, they’re high praise. In fact, that’s what I based my decision on when I purchased it. But potential buyers may not see the newer articles regarding this issue, but it is noted on the tier lists on LTT.
So it does have some benefit of informational use.
True, this does occur and Seasonic does have a work around as they will send you a free PCI-E power cable to “fix” the issue. I have the 650w version of that unit and it’s very good and I recommend it. The issue is more GPU related as the specific GPU goes out of spec on its pull which then trips the protection. Another work round would be to down clock the GPU from the factory OC or if the user sets an aggressive OC.
Most of the units I’ve owned over the years are CWT and Seasonic made. Here is the funny thing about Seasonic, most people have them as a “tier 1” or “tier A” manufacturer of PSU and they do make excellent units. They are not a turn key “tier 1” manufacturer like Delta or CWT from the brand position. Those guys would have more likely (if not definitely) caught the issue.
I haven’t personally had the issue, and I am running the 3080 with a +10% power limit (~360w) as well as a 5ghz 8700k at 1.38v. Never had the issue with an overclocked +50% power limit Vega 64 either.
Hasn’t tripped while gaming, or even during CBR23 + Heaven simultaneously.
If you overlook the list to be used for elitism or whatever, it’s still useful as an aggregate for known problems.
As far as brand tier - I dunno really. It’s so muddy in terms of who makes what, what’s really what, I just picked stuff based on reviews if I can - I think the tier lists help more than obfuscate especially at a glance.
It might push people to buy stuff they don’t really need, but it is less likely to push people to buy stuff that will serve them poorly.
I’ve never experience it myself. If I recall correctly, it’s actually two issues. The first one was the card’s ripple going out of spec that was basically impacted a handful of Asus GTX 970 cards. The second had aggressive cards drawing over 40a (may be higher I don’t recall). If your rtx 3080 is only drawing 30a then I highly doubt you have anything to worry about. Also there was no issue with CPUs so you can crank it up in OC if you like.
I think it has to do with the 850w unit having a higher rating - while I do see some users with 850w units reporting problems, it’s usually on 3090s and overclocking.
The vast majority are 650w and 750w users. 850w+ users aren’t really seeing this happen.
Saw a lot of it on reddit over the past months, although not only limited to Seasonic units. EVGA units seemed to be affected too.
Regarding the OPP tripping, it’s not really the PSU’s fault. It’s working perhaps a bit too well in protection.
I guess this just goes in the face of the most popular sentiment over PC building recommendations of "you don’t really need x watt PSU, y components will only draw z power. Or the “GPU manufacturers only state you need x PSU wattage because they have to account for lower end units”
I think they say you need these huge PSUs because they know their cards produce high transients which can trip a lot of PSUs.
I also read that recent drivers have reduced the transient spikes - Igor’s lab did one that measured on an older driver spikes of up to 600w, with newer drivers resulting in lower (500w) and fewer spikes.
Interesting, although evga has used seasonic and FSP in the past, their top line builds come from superflower which is rather similar in set up to seasonic. I would surprised to see it in a FSP unit, they hang their hat on hold up time and other issues similar to this.
most likely
If I recall it’s not the total system power delivery triggering the cut off, just the GPU.
yes and no, it’s actually more to do with junk 25c rated PSU that once inside a hot computer case may only be able to deliver 75% (or less) of their power before they go out of spec, shut down, create a spark show.
I might seem like I have multiple personalities. It is because my phone is logged into a different character and I keep forgetting to switch. And I hop back and forth between desktop and phone. LOL
The calculator doesn’t take into consideration monitor my monitor is very cheap so im going to upgrade it last to run 4k.
Also mu psu is very old too and dusty af. Ite in the rig that just broke no way in hell i gonna use that one.
I tried to use a better calculator but since idk what monitor i will use not doe it give my cpu fan option it should probably be around 700-750. I put in just random monitor to compare it came to around 600 and i think a random aio
Ahh do monitor dont need to worry toi much? What is ups? The postal service lol?
Im tryna keep temps down too i live in Hawaii and my area is hot af. When i used to grow legally had temp issues alone alwats peaking 90s 92 max lows about 74. Even on a 10/14 cycle and this is with good lights and exhaust alone. Pc same issue though ive had overheating cpu issues for almost 2 years before my pc died. Peaked a5 around 89c
thanks for the help. i used a better calculator put in some make shift parts for like the monitor and what not and yea wattage recommendation was barely under 600 so maybe 650W im looking to get?
or should i go for 700? i assume 650 is more then enough. pretty much just the fan i gotta consider but i dont think that thing will draw 50wats alone.
If you’re going with a 3080 or better card (can’t remember) I’d recommend getting a higher wattage psu with good reviews.
My 3080 recommend an 850w, and part of that is some psus don’t perform as well as they claim, and even in the ones that do, transient power spikes can trip protections.
yea i got the 3080 but both calculators i used only recommended about 600 for some reason. so what do you think if both calculators recommend 600?
AHHH i did some quick research and yea they are recommending like 750W minimum for 3080 but i think a lot of people are saying go for 850W and 1 guy said he had 600W and it shut down on him until he upgraded to 850W. think i will look into an 850 or 900W for safe side. 1k might be overkill