Is Cinebench R23 less demanding than R20?

Off-Topic Games, Gaming and Hardware
1

I just went to run CBR20 to test stability after my WHEA error, and noticed it automatically updated to R23.

Okay, sure. So I ran it…and it went for 10 straight minutes. That’s new.

Is the test now less demanding, just longer?

Regarding results…I didn’t restart after almost 7 hours of use, nor did I disable all my background tasks, but this was my result:

10249 points MT
1347 points ST

Note: For single-core, I set it to minimum test duration “off”…did not want to wait for it to do however many passes it takes to complete.

Looking at the internet:

5600x scores 11201 MT. That would make it 9.2% faster in MT performance than my 8700k.

5600x scores 1593 ST. That would make the 5600X 18% faster in ST performance than my 8700k.

Regarding metrics:

Max CPU temp 79c on Core 2, average 76c.
VRM got a bit hot, maximum of 81c.
Core Voltage - dipped to and stayed around 1.35 during the test, minor spike to 1.42v in idle. No WHEA errors, no other issues.

Okay, so regarding temperatures, I remember in the past this test would get my CPU well into the 80s; however, after 10+ minutes (8 total passes) my CPU didn’t break 79c.

Overall satisfied. Three year old CPU, still not performing bad. WHEA error went away.

I don’t think 9-18% improvement is worth upgrading for.

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2

CB23 repeats test for more “accurate” results. It reduces boost performance.

3

If you’re still happy with what you have, I say stick with it. Unless it’s someone like me who originally came from something really old like a 4790k (I currently run a 3900x but I have no probs reselling it for the 5000-series) where the performance jump would really be significant, you have some people out there just riding the min-max train.

The behavior of some people looking to improve their FPS reminds me so much of people comparing DPS performance. I sometimes come across people calling a 2080 - a card they once revered - “trash” just because something better is out. In comparison, there were times I’ve decided to play a class, spec, or choose talents that I was comfortable with but weren’t meta, just to be whispered by folks telling me to choose this and play that for that extra 1% DPS increase.

4

assuming the game, monitor, and video card would all show the 9-18% improvement

5

You do more DPS with a spec you are comfortable with then a spec that in theory creates more DPS but is slower for the user to process. Way back in vanilla and BC when I tanked I would much rather have a healer that got me my heals on time then one who got me “better” heals that came late.

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6

Would be only really in WoW and possibly some CPU intensive tasks like game install updates, shader optimizations (i think this is CPU task), and whatnot.

Most games like I said run the 3080 to the max.

But mostly made the post because i don’t recall updating R23, it just happened on its own. And thermals were way lower than I recall. I guess it’s winter…but my house is less than 10F cooler than it was during summer (68F vs 75F, or 20C vs 24C). Remember it getting into the upper 80s on R20.

OH WAIT - I forgot I upgraded my case. That might be it.

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7

As someone mentioned above, R23 is supposed to just be longer to make more accurate results from what I’m thinking. It’s intent I imagine is to also expose flaws in cooling systems, and therefore lowered clocks due to heat, among lower clocks outside burst periods. I guess it can be considered an endurance test?

R23 allows for better temperature creep upwards due to the longer test, and it makes my systems with less sufficient cooling at max load run hotter over time when running the same clocks over the test, which on R20 wouldn’t appear as high(a couple C lower), because the test would finish too fast.

On my older/slower desktop I have, I ran R23 and while it does warm up after a while, the longer test allows for it to slowly inch a couple to a few C over the extra test time after the quick rise at the start.

8

Yeah, I was definitely surprised by the results. I suppose it just goes to show how much good case flow can help a cooling system. Or rather, how a BAD case can hurt your cooling system.

Prior setup:
5ghz 8700k, 1.375v, high LLC (middle setting), delidded w/LM, Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi, NZXT S340 (oven) w/2x140mm front intake, 1x120mm top/1x120mm rear exhaust.

CBR20 would routinely be in the mid-high 80s, I want to say around 88c was typical max on a single run.

New setup:
Same as above, but 1.385v, same cooler, changed:
Case: Corsair 275R Airflow
3x120mm DEEP COOL RF120 front intake
2x120mm DEEP COOL RF120 top exhaust
1x120mm DEEP COOL RF120 rear exhaust
79c max temp, after 8 runs back to back. More voltage, much longer text time, and lower temps.

I don’t know if the fans made much of a difference, but the case was a huge improvement in airflow.

Or possibly ambient temperature making that huge a difference. I’ll give 3c to ambient temperatures. Then another 6c for the case configuraion.

9

I use to have the h440 which is similar design to the s340.
Removing the front panel alone drop temps by a minimum of 5c. Removing the side panel dropped it even more. (Though it did lead to a lightning cable touching one of the cables on my gpu and killing the motherboard.)

Cases back then were very slick looking but really bad airflow.

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10

Remove the top front fan as it’s choking your Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi. Air coolers need the top front open as they are pulling fresh air in from that opening. When you have a front- top fan blowing in and a top- front fan blowing in they counter each other. Think of it as two entry ways into a stadium where the people come in and run into each other. Bit-Tech and Custom PC both found the same results in their tests

1. The amount of venting in your case can have a huge impact on cooling, particularly around the CPU area. If you have fan mounts here that are blocked up, unblock them.

2. Generally, all other things being equal, it’s better to get hot air out of your case than to pump cool air in, particularly when it comes to CPU cooling.

3. If you have a roof mount that’s located nearer the front of the case than the CPU cooler, leave it open. Fitting a fan here only causes problems.

4. If you have one, two or three fans in your case, the side panel intake mount is the most important. Fill this first, followed by the rear exhaust mount, followed by the roof exhaust mount.

5. Bear in mind the fact that fans have an effect on each other and use this to your advantage. For this to work though they need to be close enough to interact - a side intake works better with a rear exhaust than a front intake does for this reason.

6. With four or more fans, concentrate on traditional front to back cooling and creating one strong, continuous air flow. Fill the front intakes and the roof and rear exhausts first.

7. More fans does mean more cooling, but expect diminishing returns when going above three or four fans.
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11

I appreciate this, I really do :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes: but

it is running perfectly fine

and it looks pretty

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12

Looks matter! (luckily for me my wife learned this lesson too late)

13

I don’t think there’s too much a difference in my situation, though.

I definitely feel strong heat coming out of the top of the case during load, so I know it’s working. Whether that top-front intake fan is helpful or detrimental or not, I would figure it’s pretty small either way given temperatures are quite good for both components. The only thing that even comes close to concerning is my motherboard VRM temperature (highest reading ever was 81c; they’re rated to withstand what, 125?; however, those components are on the other side of the tower, so IDK if anything other than a side-mounted fan blowing directly onto the VRM would make much of a difference anyway.

14

81c on the VRM would not concern me especially if you have a gigabyte mobo. For some reason I always hit 80c with gigabyte as opposed to other manufacturers like Asus or Asrock.

15

it’s only during heavy CPU load, like running the benchmark.

CPU intensive games etc. under 70c for the most part. WoW? lol 50c at most.

This is interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=srhw_mPZkj4

Maybe I should just configure all of them to exhaust, LOL

i think his test is a bit janky since its a solid front panel, though

16

even tech jesus won’t do an all exhaust set up, he basically follows a similar path as bit-tech

17

with a super restrictive case i can see how in that guy’s setup all exhaust worked better.

so you’re saying to remove the top front fan?

18

yes but if you are fine with your temps, it’s like a 2-3c difference. I have a Phanteks P400s with both the traditional and mesh front panel so similar to your NZXT front and Corsair front panel. Keeping the fan set up and rpm the same, by swapping out front panels from the restrictive to the mesh I can drop temps 5c to the point that even if I remove my front and side panels completely my temps don’t change.

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19

to think i decapitated my CPU just (well not really but) so I could have pretty lights

smh

SMH my head

20

Now you see why I have Fractal Design Define S2 Vision. I’m getting big cases for my builds due to more room for cool air. I’ll try Thermaltake Level 20 XT on my next casing as well.