Happened twice now in three days. I turn on my PC, it goes automatically into bios. If I try to “exit” it acts like it restarts, only to go back into bios. It never attempts to load Windows from what I can tell. Both times I thankfully managed to get on by using the power button to turn the PC off, then turn it back on and it runs as normal. Frustrated as to what the issue is though. PC is only just over 2 years. Sadly I had a 3 year warranty but the place I bought it went out of business.
One thing you can try is resetting your CMOS you need to look up your motherboard and see how you do that on your specific board. It’s easy on higher end boards because they normally have a button on the back. Another way you can reset it it’s by turning off your computer and removing the battery on your motherboard for about 45 seconds.
Unfortunately based on your description it does sound like something is wrong with your CPU. If it was booting and crashing that could be a ram issue but this sounds more like it’s your CPU. It could possibly be your motherboard but it’s most likely your CPU
So it may not be your motherboard or your computer that you need to warranty and maybe the CPU itself in which case you go through Intel but you need to determine first that it is the CPU. I don’t know how computer savvy you are but I had this issue one time and I took the CPU out of my husband’s computer and put it in mine. It booted just fine which told me it was my CPU so I started the RMA process with intel. Was on a 10900k at the time. He was on 10700k which is the same socket so I was easily able to test the CPU
The last thing you can try doing is updating your bios.
IMPORTANT NOTE: I would NOT recommend swapping out the CPU unless you really know what you’re doing and you’ve done this stuff before. I built several computers before so for me it was a 5-minute job.
Since the company bought it from no longer exist the only other thing you could do is take it into a place like Best Buy and pay them for a diagnosis. If you’re not use to computer building it’s probably the only thing you can do. I would just tell them not to fix anything until they call you and tell you what exactly the problem is and then you can decide what to do. Tell them you just want it diagnosed
Typically issues like this you start with things that are working properly. If it was my PC, I would create a USB boot drive. If the OS is not launching off the SSD yet the boot drive works, it can be a SSD issue or a corrupt OS. My “guess” since each time it goes into BIOS without an attempt of an OS launch, it’s a drive issue.
You need a working CPU and RAM to get into the BIOS. CPU issues are rare (not impossible though) but you would expect a re-start doing the BIOS process not just going into the menu instantly with a bad CPU. That said, like you stated it could be a mobo issue as well. Bad port? Typically happens out of the gate but hardly unusual.
50/50 if you get a honest & knowledgeable tech to fix the problem. remind me to tell you the rather long story of having to explain to an HP tech how to diagnosis their own f$%^ing mobo on a $3k omen PC our office used for rendering (it was under warranty).
This problem sounds like an issue I dealt with at work last week with a missing Win10 bootloader. The same behavior happened and I had to use a recovery USB stick to boot into recovery environment command prompt to repair/rebuild with the bootrec command.
Little more info: It’s 100% my SSD not showing up. So in the bios I can see all my specs of m PC except “boot priority” is blank. No option to set a boot either.
It’s showing a SATA drive, but it says 0.0GB when I click it. And it says “does not detect” on the M.2 (now I only have a single M.2 SSD in my PC, no other drives)
Tomorrow I will try to change the CMOS battery. A friend suggested it might be that making my drive not show up. Like I said, if I power it off then back in a short time span, the 2nd attempt works perfectly. So a friend thought maybe turning it on once sort of “juices” it enough to work the 2nd attempt. I thought maybe my SSD is just failing, the weird thing though I leave my PC on for 15 hours a day, and it works 100% fine/normal all day. No crashes or lag or anything.
The PC came with a preimaged installation of Win10 but it was a 256GB SSD, and the person wanted to use a 1TB SSD as the main and the 256 as the backup.
I put in the 1TB and set it as the primary boot drive. After a fresh installation on it and a successful boot, I went to wipe the 256. When it did that, that’s when it behaved like what Dracthyria been through.
I’m guessing even though bootrec recognized there being a Windows installation on the 1TB, it was still looking for the loader on the 256.
Only mentioned it because he mentioned he could enter Bios
This had me rolling
Speaking of funny stuff. Ill be giving my rig to my husband and building my self a new one. He took his motherboard out to fix something on it and the oaf dropped it
So Im giving him my 7950x rig and building my self a new one. Doing a 13900k Build this weekend. Why? better 1% lows and faster Ram also its a nice change up from AM5 and its finickyness
Lily what’s your personal opinion of my 13900k reasoning? You are obviously a tech smart individual and I agree with a lot of comments you make around here so you are obviously well knowledgeable so I’d love to hear your opinion?
Continue on my course and do a 13900k build this weekend? Or should I just do another 7950x build? Opinion? It’s literally the same price either way.
I know am5 has an upgrade path but there are so many bugs with this first generation that I guarantee you when 8000 series drops there will be a whole slew of new motherboards with Hardware fixes for a lot of these issues. They will also probably allow for faster Ram. So I’m kind of looking at it like I’m in the same boat either way if I ever want to upgrade
it’s a first rate problem to have. I really don’t get into the whole this flagship vs that flagship CPU thing especially if we are just talking about gaming and basic office use. If this was a professional setting we can go into niche debates about what specific program you use does better with a specific CPU, upgrade paths and ownership time frames. If you like the 13900k by all means continue on with the build and all your reasons are valid. If someone else stated the same thing for a 7950x build I was give them the same response.
All I would state for the 1% lows are, are they an issue you see with the naked eye? If so than it’s an issue. If it’s just a drop in your FPS over lay, it’s a benchmark issue and in my experience of building PC for way too long, chasing benchmarks is a no win game.
I’m sorry I thought you were already aware I do a lot of video editing and Photoshop work as a light Hobby so I do need the cores. With that said gaming is my main focus. I don’t make any money doing any of that stuff. Its just a hobby but it’s just nice to have the performance there when I do do it.
Unfortunately my experience in games like Jedi Survivor and Warzone have been less than ideal. I know the game of Jedi Survivor itself is poorly optimized but it’s not just that game it’s a few other games I play. There are just sudden completely random dips that cause a little bit of choppiness/studder for a sec that my buddy on his 13900k claims he never experiences. We are also both on rtx 4090s so the only Factor would be Ram or Cpu. Hes on the z790 strix and im on the x670e strix motherboard. The fact that he’s on a 7200mhz Ram kit may also a Factor.
Granted the 7800x3D would probably fix a lot of these issues however once again it’s an 8 core CPU and I would definitely notice the performance loss when doing my hobby and I don’t want to deal with the core parking on the 7950x3d.
I’m just highly curious about your opinion of the 13900k vs 7950x for those who would actually use it
well time does equal money and the 13900k does offer a decent bump up in IPC (just under 10%) which photoshop will appreciate. Video editing should be a wash but really depends on the software.
I’ve not played either one but I’ve read the issues with survivor on other forums I post on. I don’t think ram would be a major player in choppiness/studder for you (I’m guessing you have plenty of it) so it could be the CPU, it could be a driver issue, it could be a game engine issue with the vram. Does the choppiness also occur with RT off? Problem with a lot of these game engines is not so much the “cores” but they are designed for systems (game consoles) that checker board the hell of the games, have almost 16 GB of GDDR6 video ram for use (minus a few GBs for the engine) and a dedicated chip for textures.
You turn that around for a PC that is doing native rasterization at 1440p or 4k, may not even have 10 GBs of video ram, and the CPU is doing the texture compression and decompression onto of running the engine; you can see why current state of AAA consoles ports to the PC are having so many issues.
Tried it with Ray tracing on and off it’s completely random and happens for about a second or two here or there like I said it’s not a big deal it’s just less than desirable.
It could very well just be the IPC differerence between the two CPUs or it could be the games I play just prefer the Intel architecture. I even tried putting my husband’s 4090 in there to see if it was my graphics card and nope his does it too.
Yet my buddy on the 13900k claims to never experience what I describe
“core” thing is overplayed. It’s not that cores don’t matter, they do very much, but they are part of the overall CPU and CPUs ar judged on performance for need. End of the day CPU #1 offers you A performance and CPU #2 offers you B performance. One is better for your needs and your budget.
I get that but it’s the amount of cores combined with just the overall clock speeds that I would definitely notice. Not boosting over 5.0 and the heavy single core performance hit the 7800x3D has over the 13900k to allow for V cache would definitely be noticed
like I said the 13900k makes sense to me with your needs. Obviously the 7800X3D with it’s large cache can make a difference in games that can take advantage of the cache but one would expect to see 1% dips to not be as harsh in such a scenario. Stutter can be caused by several things but it’s clearly not your GPU and I don’t believe it to be your RAM.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and opinions in this thread. This was my thought process exactly and why I was leaning towards doing it instead of another 7950x. The 13900k seems like it would give me the all-around best performance both in games and out of games doing productivity on my computer
Thanks again for your input. Was really on the fence so I got a few outside opinions
Decided on my build parts. They are ordered. Will be here Saturday. Here are my picks
CPU: 13900k (will PL it to 253w)
Cooler: Arctic LF ii 360
Ram: Teamgroup T-Force Delta 7200mhz CL34
PSU: Seasonic Vertex GX 1200w ATX 3.0
I’ve been using Seasonic for years and never had an issue with them hopefully this one keeps that tradition. I will also be running it in hybrid mode so the fan won’t be on most of the time
But if it turns out it does or I’m unhappy with it I’ll just exchange it for the Corsair RM1200x SHIFT which I actually almost bought due to the cable plugs being on the side which is highly convenient
I have a personal theory that non-atx 3.0 power supplies are causing a lot of the issues with the 4090s they are basically a ticking time bomb in my opinion. So I’m happy to be on a true ATX 3.0 power supply.
