Boat is not there and portals are alliances only.
There is a way, buddy of mine did it to do some pet battle thing.
Pretty sure he said he used the portal on the dock where the boat used to be.
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Everytime I’ve went I’ve been able to use the portal on the dock after killing the two npcs standing by it.
I am at the dock now and it won’t let me use it. Looks like Blizz messed up as none of my horde characters can finish the festival.
Just texted him. Will let you know what he says when he writes me back.
He said he spoke to the npc that changes the time of dark shore to preBFA and then used the portal to the base of the tree and then the portal to exodar.
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That worked. thx.