Why do I drop below 100 fps

I was having all kinds of framerate issues a few months back. Updated all the drivers, couldn’t seem to resolve anything. In the end I just re-installed a clean copy of windows and started from scratch. All my performance issues disappeared.

Going nuclear probably shouldn’t be your first option, but don’t ignore the OS in your calculations either.

You didn’t mention your in-game graphics settings… have you messed with any of those?

It’s likely you’ll have to turn all, if not most, of them down a few notches to keep everything at a nice & steady 144hz.

Oh yeah this too, never update windows!!

Especially win 10.

This year Intel absolutely trashed their CPU’s with bad update after bad update.

Your 3.3GHz CPU is probably lacking another 30% due to that.

That cpu will choke at high fps. Consider getting dual channel ram as well. It really helps as overwatch scales not just with dual channel, but ram speed too. If you truly want a high frame rate then you should get ram speed above 3000mhz. You should move up to a newer gen i5 (requires a mobo upgrade) or a 7700k (since you can keep the same motherboard)

Also consider getting a solid state drive. They are getting pretty cheap and will improve your overall pc user experience

Reinstall your drivers. Overwatch does not support the 20 series cards yet so they are a bit buggy. The 2070 should be getting 300+ fps on overwatch at 1080p or about 190- 220 fps at 1440p & 70- 130 fps at 4k all on ultra.

Try this:

Yeaaa I my power supply should be able to provide enough power but youre right I can defintly feel how slow my harddrive sometimes is while playing overwatch, but only sometimes when I start the game it takes some time to load character models etc. I dont think and hope that the harddrive drops my framerate tho

Looking at your problem. The CPU you have is PART of the issue. This game actually uses ALOT of CPU resources to run. i5 6600 is bottle-necking your GPU. It’s time for a NEW board and a NEW processor that matches this generation.

It really depends upon your graphics settings in this game though. Most people have the habit of diving right into a game and turning EVERYTHING on ultra. TBH there are lot of unnecessary graphics settings out there such as Motion blurr and Particle details or shadow details. So set the thing to “high” and work your way down the settings.

The 550w power supply is really NOT enough room TBH. I would venture into a 720-750w power supply that is known to run consistently and test numbers on it with a stress-test while having a PSU checker PLUGGED in during operation. If those numbers fluctuate too much, send the power supply BACK.


If you are trying to get the ideal gameplay out there:

Start by setting Render Scale at 100% then actually go INTO your bios and turn on “XMP profile 1” and set your RAM sticks to the correct Mhz that their factory speed suggests.

Enable speed-step if you have a GOOD CPU cooler, if not. It WILL thermal-throttle in “turbo mode”. I water cool with a Koolance CPU-390 and I can enjoy T-B for long periods of time without thermal throttle. Those AIO water cooler kits don’t do well imo.

GL!

PSU I agree can be an issue.

That other pc I was using with the I7 3770 ended up black screening on me when I had settings above a certain point/framerate.

It was a EVGA 550W running i7 3770, GTX 1070, 16GB RAM at 1600MHz.
replaced the GPU with a GTX 1050ti and the PSu can easily power that without issues.

Now on my main rig I run a corsair TX650m Gold PSU, I7 4790, GTX 1070 and 16GB RAM at 1600MHz without issues.

So maybe the other PSU was causing dips before it started failing?
We will never know, lol.

During a Power supply integrity test. Any individual can plug a power supply directly into the tester without it being connected to the board and other devices inside the unit, flip the unit on and it test “fine”.

BUT with an actual test that uncovers results and more than likely will turn a bad or “fault-code” on the tester is to reveal it like this;

What I found was; A person had to take one of the extra 6/8 pin connectors from the power supply unit and just plug it RIGHT on into the tester and boot the PC. with the rest of the connectors that make the machine RUN, still plugged in (4/8pin cpu conector, sata, 24-pin power rail, molex 4-pin connectors, etc…

. Then turn on your pc and play your favorite game title and watch if there is an alarm that comes up on the power supply tester, or if there are MAJOR fluctuations that occurs on the power tester. Sometimes you will get that 0.2-0.3v shift, that sorta moves up and down. But it is nothing to be worried about. HOWEVER, if the unit is under load and the tester’s number are moving at roughly 0.8v shifts and it is shifting rapidly, the power supply is faulty.

That said. It is the better method of testing. I remember discovering this during college, and not everyone has a TON of money laying around to buy an Oscilloscope to test electrical wave patterns and chart it.

Power supplies go bad, and OFTEN. Usually a good rule of thumb is to TOSS the power supply in the dumpster after 2-2.5 years of use and buy a new one. Remember, we are using a computer which changes electrical current into pulses the power supply is NOT something a person wants to cheap out on.

  • A good power supply will NOT shift much during a load.

  • A bad power supply will shift as much as 1v-1.5v under load.

Generally what takes out components or wears them down fast is the 5v power-rail going bad in power supplies, AND CCFLs inside cases. Which is why I switched over to NON-Ballast lighting (LED lighting) in cases.

GL!

Oh and most all power supplies are most efficient around 50% draw too!

This limits heat and will prolong its life!

As my setup shouldnt really draw more then 400W, the 550 still couldnt cut it over time.

hope the 650 gold holds up.

I’d NEVER read the sales flyer on a power supply. There is a person online whom is a registered electrician and tests power supplies. I cannot remember his name or where his website is. THey have a nice website on the various power supplies they test and have some really nice results on them, and I am NOT talking about the individuals whom are from Tomshardware and PC world. Those places only up-sell and write minor reviews on parts. I am talking about someone that takes the time to plug them into a testing system and do these types of stress-tests.

Generally we all want at LEAST a silver rated power supply. A person will NEVER need anything above 800w anymore. Because the EPA stepped in and had some cases they made against Graphics card manufacturers that stated they needed to stay below a certain threshold on wattage used.

:stuck_out_tongue:

Turn off HPET in BIOS. I jumped from 240 to 300 stable with this.

Already tried that, didnt really change anything :confused:

Try this and see what it says. It a easy to use tuner for mb and cpu.

I don’t know tbh. I never used MSI Afterburner before ^^

Overwatch doesn’t take overclocking gpu’s real well. Everytime I had done it all games except overwatch played well. Overwatch always crashes at some point and I have to revert to stock. Rumor is that factory overclocking runs fine though…

You can google overclock levels that are stable for any of your components.

MSI afterburner is dead simple, you just move sliders and save a profile. Youtube tutorials for everything also.

In addition to the stuff others mentioned, I suggest you force a steady FPS in the OW settings - set it for the lowest you get in the most chaotic situation (which is usually 100fps-120fps anyway). It is way better to have consistent frames for better aim.

MY specs:
AMD FX-8120 3.1 ghz 8core can be clocked to 4 ghz(its old i dont wanan burn it up with my poor cooling at the moment lol)

16gb of Cosair vengeance ddr3 dual channel
(NB Frequency 2207.7 MHz)

GPU: Asus AMD Radeon HD 7950 3gb 500mhz core,1250 MHz memory

motherboard: Asus M5A78L-M/usb3 (small board i had to replace my other board made in 2012 because a ram slot went out and a video slot went out so i had this laying around and this is 2014 material here)

ssd is ADATA sp900 250 gb ( i store my games on this)The rest of my hd’s are old stuff too.
psu:is thermal take i want to say 650 watt or 700watt (im to lazy to go to the garage to look at the box)

Runs overwatch great for its age and other game titles also…its a classic!

I can run the game at 70+ fps in high to ultra settings and if i jsut choose high and knock off some stuff i dont need i can boost to over 100 fps.To me 100 fps is smooth enough.Do i want better…yeah who dont,but this wil ldo until my system blows up some day and i have had this system since 2012.

there are some complex games that it may struggle on in full ultra graphics but the ones i play it does fine.

I installed msi afterburner know but what should I check with it now? O.o