Wireless headset not fully charging

General Discussion
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Before you say “post on reddit or corsair forums” I did that but the response time is usually pretty long so I’m posting here because some people might have the same problem

I use a Corsair void rgb elite wireless headset. I always charge it over night sometimes 12 or more hours and it never ever get’s fully charged…the most I’ve seen it was probably 94 or 95%…last night it only charged to 88%…and this is has been happening since day 1 of owning this headset. AND I had a similar wireless corsair headset before this one and that one had the same problem of not fully charging…

anyone else get this problem if so is there a fix
thx

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Switch batteries?

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For my part, I have a bicycle wheel problem. The tire deflates on its own, even if I replace the inner tube.

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4

What are you charging it with? What all have you tried to charge it with?

Make sure your charging source is something with a powerful amperage capability. The unit will not draw more than it can use, but if the source isn’t strong enough to start with, that WILL cause issues.

For example, don’t be trying to charge it from a computer port.

Nowhere on the Corsair’s website can I find a specific notation of the requirements, but I’m going to go out on a limb and say that at a MINIMUM it needs 2.4A, but probably can use up to 5A if it needed to. It should be modern enough. Anything lower than 2.4A, and not a modern smart charger will be insufficient most likely and could result in incomplete charging of the battery for safety reasons.

Good luck.

Edit:

Here is a nice reasonably priced multi-port charger that should work fine with it and other things:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P936188/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

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I’m charging it in the USB on my tower and I have a 1000w power supply and everything is plugged into a surge protector. I could use an adapter on the USB and plug it directly into an outlet see if that makes a difference.

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That won’t work.

USB charging via a computer is limited too much. You need an external USB charger for that type of device.

Your PSU wattage has no bearing on it. Its governed by the USB on the motherboard.

As for chargers, Anker makes good quality units, be careful buying weird branded ones, those are usually junk. Sure they are cheaper, but for a reason.

This might be a better charger for it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUTIUEA/ref=emc_b_5_t

Supports Qualcomm properly. Bit more money but still.

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can I use my android adapter? It can connect to USB and then wall outlet…if that’s not a good idea I will go with Anker

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You can always try it. Won’t hurt to try. You won’t make it worse! lol

Nice part about the multi ones, is you can charge multiple things at once.
Mine charges 2 apple devices, an android, my mouse, and then can be used to charge a myriad of other devices, including an Oontz Angle 3 Pro external speaker. I also use it occasionally to power my direct lithium/NiMH battery charger. (I can recharge individial lithium cells, etc with it)

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that’s true but the only other device I have is my phone and it holds a charge for pretty long…so when the phone isn’t charging I can plug the headset in.

I will try it tonight and I will let you know if the wall outlet option worked better than usb charging…

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How long have you had them? Also, what does the manufacturer recommend? Overnight charging is a bad idea, by the way. Overcharging can happen and that reduces the battery life. Of course it may be using the USB port rather than a direct charger could be the issue.

My guess is the battery, if it can be replaced, should be. If not, look for a new headset.

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Honestly they have little to nothing to say about it. I looked.

I will have to say, that can vary depending on the device and battery usage.

Personally I recommend never charging your device above 80% and not discharging it below 20% (at the extreme). I typically aim for 33%/66% myself with most of my lithium powered portable devices, with the exception of laptops as they are harder to maintain that mindset.

That said.

Dumb chargers vs smart chargers.

Most modern devices want to be charged intelligently, to prevent overcharging etc. Not to mention those same modern devices have features built in to prevent damage as well. Such as not allowing a device to fully charge. Take my laptop for example. If it reaches a full charge, and I continue to leave it plug it while using it or not using it, it will actually start to drop down over time. Often reaching about 90%. In order to get it to fully charge again, I actually have to run on the battery for a bit first, then charge it back up.

In this case, the headphones may be slowing down their charging or stopping the charge due to not liking the power from the PC USB port. There are way too many inconsistencies with charging devices from PCs that I just don’t recommend it as a whole. Even if they support it. Even if they claim otherwise. Been down and all over those roads. A smart power charger however can provide good steady power and be compatible with more devices than a typical PC USB port.

Phones and tablets are the ones most affected by being fully charged and fully drained. Those extremes are hard on the battery chemistry, which is why I usually recommend to try not to charge past 80% or drain it past 20% (or better if you can). My main cell has a 5000mah battery, and when new it could power the phone with normal use for 3-5 days. If I only used it for phone calls and texting, as much as a week easy. So it was relatively easy to keep it from being overcharged or drained. But now, 5 years later, its gotten weaker. I use that device a LOT.

Anyway.

Point is, they have already tried replacing the headset and were still having issues, which is why I made the suggestions I did.

Don’t use a PC to charge it. And invest in a smart charger, preferably one with Qualcomm charging support as well. Having a versatile smart charger with decent output capability helps a ton.

Game on.

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Cool. I started using Shokz headsets. They work great for running and for this. They do not go over the ear as they are bone conductor headphones. I do not get the ear fatigue from them I get from regular headphones.

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I have two headsets that I work with. The PC has a wired USB connected one from Razer (Kraken Ultimate). And then I have a bluetooth one for my phone/tablets from Samsung/AKG (Y600NC). That one is a rechargeable unit, but I rarely use it. But it will hold a charge for months. I have a third one brand new in the box that came free with my MSI laptop (MSI wired H991), but never used it. LOL

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One thing you could try is run the headset till the batteries go dead. Then charge it and do that a few times. It might reprogram the batteries.

People it has nothing to do with the charger. It is charging the batteries. Rechargeable batteries will do that over time.

WOW ??? So I have a cell phone I charge it 80% use it to 20%. Plug it back in charge back to 80%. I’ll be charging the cell phone all the time and only a few hrs a day.

Plus people most rechargeable batteries have a life span. You can only charge them so many times.

The OP said it is charging. If you have a life style of charging your batteries like this. Yes the new batteries are not supposed to do that, but I feel they will still program themselves to charge like that.

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Actually when reading your response to my post above tells me there’s a fair amount you don’t know about how lithium batteries work. Now ideally no one is going to sit there and try to micromanage their charging habit and I’m quite aware of that. But the fact is the the damage is mostly caused to lithium batteries by keeping them either A: fully charged or B: completely drained.

They do not develop a memory like nickel metal hydrate batteries. Running them completely dead and charging them back up is actually harder on them. And leaving a device sitting with a full charge on the battery is like taking a car and filling it full of clowns and then leaving them in there for a week. It’s going to cause damage to the battery. The same would happen if the battery sits there dead for a long time. That also can cause damage.

You see, lithium ion batteries have a particular habit of forming these structures between the positive and negative sides. And those structures are more likely to form during a full discharge to dead and a full charge to fully charged, then they would if you’re maintaining a 33 to 66% charge. But as these structures continue to grow eventually they start shorting out the battery, and will lead to short life spans hot batteries and swelling if it’s a lipo pack.

If you have a device that’s used irregularly, it’s best to charge it to around 50% for storage. And if all possible disconnect the battery but some devices that’s not possible. As for a battery’s life throughout the use of your item you’re going to maximize it’s lifespan by not charging it to extremes and discharging it to extremes.

Now hopefully with some of the future tech coming like sodium batteries some of these extremes may not be as prevalent.

Anyway again as I was saying my recommendations for maximizing your battery’s life span above will not always fit the situation or the device usage. Most phones for example are lucky if they’ll last a full day on a charge, even brand new. That’s one of the reasons I like the phone I have because I can get several days out of one charge. And for those wondering I have a sonim XP 8800. It’s a heavy brick of a phone but it’s tough durable and long-lasting.

As for charging methods it does indeed matter what you use to charge your device these days. I have ran into issues charging Apple tablets on generic junk chargers that don’t work with them very well but you put them on a good charger and they do fine. This is also the reason I usually don’t recommend charging it from a PC. Now an Apple phone on an Apple device that might not be a problem but anything else?

Anyway just my perspective.

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That is a much more powerful charger than your PC.
Always charge from an outlet if possible.

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So as per your recommendation of charging it directly through the wall outlet…well it worked, you were absolutely correct. I charged it only for about 2 hours and it went from 66 to 100%. I actually had no idea that it would make that much of a difference.

thank you very much, you’re a genius imo :hugs:

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Glad to hear it.

I have done a lot of work with lithium battery packs, lots of research. Currently working on building my own power wall actually. Been collecting battery packs and taking them apart to harvest the individual cells, then testing them for use in the wall.

Had spent a LOT of time researching charging, safe storage, best habits, etc., especially when it comes to lithium. There is a lot of good info out there, and some bad or mis-leading info as well…

Game on.

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I dont think Ive ever seen someone with so much knowledge of lithium batteries.

That was a good read.

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Maybe its because of how this forum typically is, but I get the feeling that maybe, just maybe, I’m being punked here a bit. lol :stuck_out_tongue:

There are still things even I’m figuring out with stuff like that. I would love to get my hands on a battery pack the size of a Tesla though. I need a LOT more cells to put my wall together. I have somewhere around 700 currently. Need around 20x that or more for it to be viable and able to sustain my office for more than a few hours.

Not to mention the $4K-6K battery charging system that can use both solar and grid to charge the batteries, and act as an instant UPS backup when the grid goes down if I want. And that’s all assuming I run a 48V battery system. And to get there, you need 14 battery banks in series, each with at least 1000 cells in parallel to start with. (14k batteries)

That equates to 48V@ 2.5kAh (2,500,000 mAh assuming a maximum of 2.5A per cell)

Or, 2.5KA that would last an hour. Or 250A that last 10 hours. Or 25A that last 100 hours. And usually you would build the system so that you never actually draw power from the packs at the limit of an individual cell’s ability. So in actuality, the maximum load I would put on that system would be approximately 100A - 150A draw before being limited by the inverter or tripping a breaker. That way I never push the battery packs and their cells too hard.

So basically the load will dictate how much I can sustain. And the more capacity, the longer it will last. But also the longer it takes to charge.

Then there is voltage.

You can run an inverter for DC to AC on as low as 12V. But it requires more current and you have more loss in the conversion. So the higher the voltage, the less loss and current to provide the same output. 48V isn’t bad, 96V is better, but any higher the diminishing returns of what you gain is negated by the cost. Because then you need even more battery packs. 14 is required to hit 48. (each cell at full charge typically is around 4.2V depending on type and drop as low as 2.8V when at a low charge) And to keep capacity up, each pack has to have a lot of batteries.

And all that is maintained by the charging equipment, complete with circuit balancing to prevent individual packs of batteries from being under or over charged. Not to mention having to fuse every single cell in every pack (yes all 14k of them) for safety to prevent a bad cell from causing a short or excessive heat and possibly starting a thermal runaway with your pack and setting the whole wall on fire.

lol

Too much?

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