Smoke Runeword failed

Just tried to make Smoke armor.

I put the Nef rune in plain etheral (grey) two-socket chain mail.

After the servers went back up, I added the Lum rune in.

I ended up with a Mechanic’s Chain Mail of Equilibrium… not Smoke.
This is the first time I’ve ever had a runeword fail, this was not attempting to add runes to a magic (blue) item.

I have spare runes so can try again, though don’t want to risk wasting another Lum.