Tech help - BSOD/not wow related

Support Technical Support
1

I appreciate any advice/assistance you can offer me! My computer was running fine before this happened. Its 3 years old and everything is firmly plugged in and updated.

I was downloading the steam client for the 1st time and all of a sudden my screen went black and the computer was making a fairly loud engine sound. I had to manually shut the computer down. After it came back on, a BSOD screen said I had “status: memory management issue.”

I did a memory diagnostic scan and it did not find any issues. Can you guys help me out here. Specs=

cpu - Intel core I5-8400 1g1a1151
mb - asrock z370m pro 4 atx lga1151
mem - corsair vengence lpx 8gb ddr4 2666
s - seagate firecuda 1tb 3.5 7200
vc - zotac geforce gtx 1060 6g
ps - seasonic s1211 520w 80+

I just did a scannow/cmt and it said I had some corrupted files, but I don’t think that’s what caused my computer to crash.

2

Check your fans. It sounds like overheating - maxed fans.

1 Like
3

I don’t overclock or anything like that, if that’s what you mean. But, I will check them.

4

Doesn’t matter. Fans randomly break and stop working even under “normal” conditions, and especially if you don’t clean them out frequently.

You should always keep canned air handy and use it to blow the dust out of your fans, once a week minimum.

5

It just happened again. It turns my screen back and it feels like the computer is being hi-jacked. I checked the fans and used the cooling app and it seems everything is fine. This time I didn’t get a BSOD though for w/e reason.

6

If you’re comfortable doing so, I’d try popping the RAM sticks out and reseating them.

7

Black screen loud engine sound (fans), 3 year old with cheap power supply. I would be definitely checking the PSU. I have found over the years not to buy a cheap PSU. Pay a bit more and it should last a bit longer.

A common mistake I see is people putting their computer under the table in the corner in a hot room with little to no ventilation for their system. This can result in your computer running hot especially when gaming, which can shorten the lifespan of quite a few of the components in your system.

I have found ‘blue screens’ to almost always be software related and by manually shutting down your computer you may have accidentally corrupted your file system.

I have found the best solution to this is to do a complete reinstall of Windows and reset your partitions. You could try fixing your corrupt files with scannow/cmt although I prefer the latter solution.

8

I see you list a hard drive…
SSD drives are highly recommended.
Pop in a cheep 480-500 SSD it will be worth the $50…

9

I would consider upgrading to Windows 11 if you have the latest drivers installed (you may be using a newer Windows 11 driver that has code partially backported for Windows 10.)

Summary

1.) Download Windows 10 ISO Image to “C:\Win11_English_x64.iso”

2A.) Run these commands in PowerShell:

2B.) New-Item -Path “HKLM:\SYSTEM\Setup\MoSetup”
2C.) New-ItemProperty -Path “HKLM:\SYSTEM\Setup\MoSetup” -Name “AllowUpgradesWithUnsupportedTPMOrCPU” -PropertyType DWord -Value “00000001”
2D.) Mount-DiskImage -ImagePath “C:\Win11_English_x64.iso”

3.) Open Windows Explorer and select the drive labeled “CCCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9”
4.) Run setup.exe

NOTE: Steps 2B/2C bypass the glitchy “PC Health Check,” which doesn’t work 3/4 of the time, EVEN IF your PC has a compatible TPM and 64-bit processor. Even if you didn’t have a compatible BSP file, most likely you could just slipstream motherboard / chipset / graphics card drivers with the image via the Windows ADK. It would probably still work perfectly. The most important part is the initial registration process, especially with OEM versions. Later on it’s very easy to reformat with an ISO image, without having to go through the process again, given it was already activated and has its own hardware ID tied to the motherboard, which is permanently associated with that key, ie a node-locked licensing format. I had ZERO issues on a 5 year old Taiwanese-made laptop with hybrid-UEFI, despite what other people may imagine. Feature updates were not blocked. Everything worked. If you have to reset anything, the following scripts / batch routines / powershell cmdlets will work…

OPTIONAL: Check to see whether or not you have TPM 2.x support (or if you need to enable it in UEFI - UEFI/BIOS.) The PC Health App may not be able to recognize your PC, even if your computer is fully capable of running Windows 11 (just because it’s not on the supported list yet.)

NOTE: It may try to resize your partition to create a recovery drive (which you may have to delete that later, and then go back into diskpart and resize your system drive (if you care that much about partition alignment that is. Not everyone does.)

I would NOT suggest reinstalling Windows unless your registry hive is unrecoverable. In the worst case scenario, you could use the “Push-button reset” via WinRE, or even just use a generic ISO image to restore the running operating system image. I don’t personally think that’s necessary as this is probably just a driver issue. This would work to restore any corrupt operating system files or correct any configuration issues (I posted a variation of this in another area.)

Once you boot up again and you have network access, you could try this via Powershell (as long as your firewall is not set to block the following executable files from accessing the network: TiWorker.exe, TrustedInstaller.exe, Powershell.exe, MoUsoCoreWorker.exe, etc)… → Start Menu → Run → taskmgr → File → Run new Task → %SystemRoot%\System32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe → Select “Create this task with administrative privileges.” → Click OK.

A script / batch routine to update your powershell, the repository, 3rd-party modules, help files, turn off the saved command line history, and set execution privileges so you can use basic powershell cmdlets built into the operating system itself:

Set-ExecutionPolicy -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -Scope CurrentUser -Force
Set-ExecutionPolicy -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -Scope LocalMachine -Force;
Set-PSReadLineOption -HistorySaveStyle SaveNothing -MaximumHistoryCount 1;
Set-Content -Value “Remove-Module PSReadline” -NoNewline -Path $PROFILE;
[Net.ServicePointManager]::SecurityProtocol = [Net.SecurityProtocolType]::Tls12;
Install-PackageProvider -Name NuGet -Scope AllUsers -Force;
Install-PackageProvider -Name PowerShellGet -Scope AllUsers -Force;
Get-Module -ListAvailable | Update-Module -Scope AllUsers -Force;
Update-Help -Verbose -Force -ErrorAction SilentlyContinue;

Now run these commands in this order via powershell:

DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth
DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-Image /StartComponentCleanup /ResetBase
DISM.exe /Cleanup-Mountpoints
./sfc /scannow

After that run Windows Update (Settings → Windows Update → Check for Updates) to patch the operating system…

If Windows Update does not work, run this from a powershell prompt:
./sc config EventLog start=auto;./sc config UsoSvc start=auto;./sc config wuauserv start=auto;./net start EventLog;./net start UsoSvc;./net start wuauserv;

Reinstall all apps: Get-AppXPackage -AllUsers | Foreach {Add-AppxPackage -DisableDevelopmentMode -Register “$($_.InstallLocation)\AppXManifest.xml”};
Reset all apps: Get-AppxPackage | Reset-AppxPackage;

Display all apps: Get-AppxPackage | Sort Name | Format-Table Name, InstallLocation

Reset apps individually: In many ways it does not matter for most people, but it is MUCH smarter to the repair option FIRST, mainly so you don’t lose your data, especially if any of these apps have login information or any media files that were purchased via the app, and stored offline: Settings → Apps → Apps & Features → (insert app name here) → 3 Vertical Dots On The Right Side Of The Pane → Advanced Options → Repair

Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.549981C3F5F10 | Reset-AppxPackage
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.BingNews | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.BingWeather | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.GamingApp | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.GetHelp | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.Getstarted | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.MicrosoftOfficeHub | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.MicrosoftSolitaireCollection | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.MicrosoftStickyNotes | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.MixedReality.Portal | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.Office.OneNote | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.People | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.ScreenSketch | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.SkypeApp | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.Todos | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.Windows.Photos | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.WindowsAlarms | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.WindowsCamera | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers microsoft.windowscommunicationsapps | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.WindowsFeedbackHub | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.WindowsMaps | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.WindowsSoundRecorder | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.Xbox.TCUI | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.XboxApp | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.XboxGameOverlay | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.XboxGamingOverlay | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.XboxIdentityProvider | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.XboxSpeechToTextOverlay | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.ZuneMusic | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.ZuneVideo | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.Microsoft3DViewer | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.MSPaint | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.Paint | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.WindowsCalculator | Reset-AppxPackage;
Get-AppxPackage -allusers Microsoft.WindowsNotepad | Reset-AppxPackage;

An example of how to set a pagefile:

NTFS:
1TB = 1048576 (MB) → 2^20 * 1
500GB = 512001 (MB) → 500 * 1024 + 1
250GB = 256001 (MB) → 250 * 1024 + 1
150GB = 153601 (MB) → 150 * 1024 + 1
100GB = 102401 (MB) → 100 * 1024 + 1
50GB = 51201 (MB) → 50 * 1024 + 1

NTFS → (Size in GB * 1024) + 1
FAT32 (up to 32GB) → (Size in GB * 1024) + 12

“Minimum page file size: Varies based on page file usage history, amount of RAM (RAM ÷ 8, max 32 GB) and crash dump settings. Maximum page file size: 3 × RAM or 4 GB, whichever is larger. This is then limited to the volume size ÷ 8. However, it can grow to within 1 GB of free space on the volume if required for crash dump settings.”

16385 (16GB NTFS) → MIN 2048 MAX 49155 (MAX > 19200 = 1/8th of 150GB Volume)

If you had 16GB of memory installed, the maximum size of the page file would be around 19.2GB represented as 19200MB, based on the system drive being 150GB, the minimum page file size being set at 2GB, which in this instance is 2048MB (aside from what the operating system has set.) This is very close to HOW it would physically allocate the files on disk, using a similar method you would utilize to create the partitions themselves.

On Linux / Unix / Nix in general it’s slightly different but more of the same when you compare the numbers…

NEWFS: TB = {[(1099511627776 * Size in TB) + 1048576] / 512}
NEWFS: GB = {[(1073741824 * Size in GB) + 1048576] / 512}

FDISK:

1TB = 16385 cylinders {[(2^40) / (Cylinder Blocks * Sectors)]+1}
500GB = 8001 cylinders {[(2^30 * 500) / (Cylinder Blocks * Sector Size)]+1}
250GB = 4001 cylinders {[(2^30 * 250) / (Cylinder Blocks * Sector Size)]+1}
150GB = 2401 cylinders {[(2^30 * 150) / (Cylinder Blocks * Sector Size)]+1}
100GB = 1601 cylinders {[(2^30 * 100) / (Cylinder Blocks * Sector Size)]+1}
50GB = 801 cylinders {[(2^30 * 50) / (Cylinder Blocks * Sector Size)]+1}

NOTE: As a last resort you could download the ISO image, extract it with WinRAR to a folder like this, and then run DISM. The only issue is at this point you have to download all your updates again. Make sure to use the correct index number or you will have to do this over again. If it’s a Windows 10 image you could just change the folder and path names (if that’s actually necessary to use a Windows 10 image.)

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth /Source:C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install.wim:1 /LimitAccess

Here’s another way to figure out which edition of Windows you have. Almost any of these commands should work:

Get-ComputerInfo -Property Windows*
Get-ComputerInfo | select WindowsProductName, WindowsVersion, OsHardwareAbstractionLayer
systeminfo /fo csv | ConvertFrom-Csv | select OS*, System*, Hotfix* | Format-List
(Get-WmiObject -class Win32_OperatingSystem).Caption
[System.Environment]::OSVersion.Version
[Environment]::OSVersion
winver
systeminfo

If you’re not sure which one to use, here’s an example. This is exactly the same as on Windows 10 btw, aside from the folder being different in this example:

DISM /Get-WimInfo /WimFile:“C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install.wim”

Details for image : C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install.wim

Index : 1
Name : Windows 11 Home
Description : Windows 11 Home
Size : 15,854,479,870 bytes

Index : 2
Name : Windows 11 Home N
Description : Windows 11 Home N
Size : 15,170,988,662 bytes

Index : 3
Name : Windows 11 Home Single Language
Description : Windows 11 Home Single Language
Size : 15,857,403,299 bytes

Index : 4
Name : Windows 11 Education
Description : Windows 11 Education
Size : 16,136,983,252 bytes

Index : 5
Name : Windows 11 Education N
Description : Windows 11 Education N
Size : 15,450,067,990 bytes

Index : 6
Name : Windows 11 Pro
Description : Windows 11 Pro
Size : 16,134,043,048 bytes

Index : 7
Name : Windows 11 Pro N
Description : Windows 11 Pro N
Size : 15,447,756,461 bytes

Index : 8
Name : Windows 11 Pro Education
Description : Windows 11 Pro Education
Size : 16,136,934,462 bytes

Index : 9
Name : Windows 11 Pro Education N
Description : Windows 11 Pro Education N
Size : 15,450,018,300 bytes

Index : 10
Name : Windows 11 Pro for Workstations
Description : Windows 11 Pro for Workstations
Size : 16,136,958,857 bytes

Index : 11
Name : Windows 11 Pro N for Workstations
Description : Windows 11 Pro N for Workstations
Size : 15,450,043,145 bytes

Here’s an example of an ISO image extracted with WinRAR that also has drivers added to it, and then feature updates / patches. On one line with OSCDIMG it forced me to put a space after etfsboot, as it falsely recognized that as a link. I’m not allowed to post links for some odd reason (remove the space and that will work, as it’s a file name and not a link.) This requires the ADK obviously (Deployment and Imaging Tools Environment,) and you would probably have to edit the directories to make this useful. I also used “Export-WindowsDriver” via powershell to create the driver store for the servicing stack (DISM) to reference when adding drivers to the image (Microsoft Update Catalog has the feature updates for download as well. I added them to the image based on the order they were released, and then removed any superseded packages / components with another command as you can see in the following script / batch routine.)

@ECHO OFF
SETLOCAL
MKDIR “C:\Scritch_Scratch”
MKDIR “C:\Snarfjob”
DISM /Mount-Image /ImageFile:“C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install.wim” /Index:1 /MountDir:“C:\Snarfjob”
DISM /Add-Package /Image:“C:\Snarfjob” /ScratchDir:“C:\Scritch_Scratch” /PackagePath:“C:\Win11_Drivers\windows10.0-kb5005537-x64-ndp48_5f30e4f308a26108777da3f8488a308dff827ead.msu”
DISM /Add-Package /Image:“C:\Snarfjob” /ScratchDir:“C:\Scritch_Scratch” /PackagePath:“C:\Win11_Drivers\windows10.0-kb5006674-x64_c71b094804f4f592fa810ee9c4484489297c5dfc.msu”
DISM /Add-Package /Image:“C:\Snarfjob” /ScratchDir:“C:\Scritch_Scratch” /PackagePath:“C:\Win11_Drivers\windows10.0-kb5006363-x64-ndp48_ca9dc54f0f42e71c847a75567493f123d123c923.msu”
DISM /Add-Package /Image:“C:\Snarfjob” /ScratchDir:“C:\Scritch_Scratch” /PackagePath:“C:\Win11_Drivers\windows10.0-kb5006746-x64_7de0eb046446a91264144613b6bba263541ad009.msu”
Dism /Add-Driver /Image:“C:\Snarfjob” /Driver:“C:\Win_10_11_Drivers” /Recurse
DISM /Cleanup-Image /Image:“C:\Snarfjob” /ScratchDir:“C:\Scritch_Scratch” /StartComponentCleanup /ResetBase
COPY “C:\SysinternalsSuite\sdelete64.exe” “C:\Snarfjob\Windows\System32”
DISM /Image:“C:\Snarfjob” /ScratchDir:“C:\Scritch_Scratch” /Optimize-Image /WimBoot
DISM /Unmount-Image /MountDir:“C:\Snarfjob” /Commit
REM DISM /Remount-Image /MountDir:“C:\Snarfjob”
DISM /Cleanup-Mountpoints
RMDIR /S /Q “C:\Scritch_Scratch”
RMDIR /S /Q “C:\Snarfjob”
DISM /Export-Image /SourceImageFile:“C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install.wim” /SourceIndex:1 /DestinationImageFile:“C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install2.wim”
DEL “C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install.wim”
COPY “C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install2.wim” “C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install.wim”
DEL “C:\Win11_English_x64\sources\install2.wim”

REM oscdimg -m -o -u1 -udfver102 -lCCCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9 -bootdata:2#p0,e,b"C:\Win11_English_x64\boot\etfsboot .com"#pEF,e,b"C:\Win11_English_x64\efi\microsoft\boot\efisys_noprompt.bin" “C:\Win11_English_x64” “C:\ISO\Win11_English_x64_Generic.iso”

REM 2021-10 Cumulative Update for .NET Framework 3.5 and 4.8 for Windows 11 for x64 (KB5005537)

REM 2021-10 Cumulative Update for Windows 11 for x64-based Systems (KB5006674)

REM 2021-10 Cumulative Update Preview for .NET Framework 3.5 and 4.8 for Windows 11 for x64 (KB5006363)

REM 2021-10 Cumulative Update for Windows 11 for x64-based Systems (KB5006746)

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10

As someone else mentioned, I would check the PSU too.

PSU’s don’t always just “fail”, sometimes it takes a while. I personally had a failing PSU and it would randomly cause my system to restart on its own. Sometimes I’d get a BSOD, other times it would run a system scan upon booting Windows. It wasn’t until one such incident when it actually caused corruption in my Windows system files that I had to do something about it, so I pulled the trigger on a new PSU and haven’t had a problem since.

Stick with name brands, never EVER go cheap or off brand. I fried a friend’s motherboard when he bought a cheap (new) no-name PSU. Plugged it in and there was a sizzle and a pop. Dead.

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11

When you have long walls of text, try using the “hide details” formatting option to make the thread more readable.

[details="Description"]
[/details]
This is an example

This text is wrapped inside the example.

You can also use it without a description and it will be labeled Summary by default. It’s also accessible via the toolbar if you click the gear icon, but I recommend just typing it out. Thanks in advance!

1 Like
12

My editing is really bad, but I haven’t posted in probably 5 years (I thought about this last night lmao.) I was also using an older style of formatting that does not work on the new forums, so I just gave up on formatting initially to post something helpful / useful. I will go back and read up on the new syntax.

13

Haha. No worries. New forums use Discourse, so looking up syntax for that will work. I’ve gone ahead and put a few things into drop downs from the original post. The quick way to make something hidden / detail drop down like Elocin mentioned is clicking on the cogwheel > Hide Details. If you go into editing the original post you’ll see the formatting it put on it.

Hope that helps! Love the info, but those walls of text can seem daunting to some so try to keep it simple.

1 Like
14

Here, we try to supply advice that end users - with no computer experience - can put into effect. Your post is something a level III tech at a support center would discuss with their colleagues. To make it useful to an end user, who might be daunted by simply working on their computer - never mind doing involved and delicate fixes - you need to present possible fixes one at a time. Try one, did it work? No? Try the next.

And you may not believe they are involved and delicate, given your expertise, but they certainly are for a customer on the other side of the counter.

As many have said, it’s mega-overload for an average end-user. Yes, you have expertise. You need to take things step by step. When a user asks for help, throwing the entire manual at them and saying ‘go’ doesn’t help.

One step at a time. Did X work? No? Try Y, and then Z. Not ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOP, did those work? No? Try QRSTUVWXYZ123456789, and 10.

Just ease up a bit. In the end you want to help, right? You’re being far more confusing to the ‘people on the other side of the counter’ than you need to be. You’re talking far more like you’re speaking to another very experienced technician, not speaking to a customer.

And adding in the belittling and condescending comments doesn’t work at all, either.

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15

No need to do all that lmao…

Just open up the disk management tool, shrink your primary partition by 8GB(or any other drive in the computer for that matter), make a new partition with a drive letter out of the unassigned space, format it, and extract the ISO to it.

When your computer is booting up, spam the F2 key to get the boot menu list (varies by motherboard manufacturer), select the new small partition drive and you’ll boot into it like having a bootable USB or DVD. I always keep a partition for this to make it easier to reinstall if the situation ever pops up.

Also, Microsoft has an ISO tool to make bootable thumbdrives and whatnot. Pretty much everyone and their mom has one of at least 8gb laying around.

As for the OP having his fans run at max in that crashed condition, that’s normal. Most bioses blast the fans to 100% when they initially boot or are in that type of state. It really does sound like you’ve got a seating issue with your ram sticks or your power supply is failing.

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So I’ve been tackling this problem one step at a time with lots of tests and cleaning.

It looked like the top half of the Gpu slot was loose/shaky, so I switched that and there was alot of dust inside the Psu. I never removed each part to clean the insides of them before, I usually just blowed around them.

So far, I haven’t had too many issues. If someone could recommend a PSU for this build, I’d greatly appreciate it! And thank you everyone for helping me!!!

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This is actually step-by-step. In-place upgrades currently have a lot of problems. You literally have to repair the apps and run DISM right after you upgrade.

Summary

I don’t think I said anything condescending to you also. I can see you’re in a Korean guild, I’m not sure whether you use translation services in some way, or that augments your English skills. It doesn’t let me post links btw. I DID try to make it simple, other than the bad editing due to it being rushed.

TLDR: Every other option is WORSE, which may be frustrating to you. You could run around 5 lines in powershell, and click the mouse a few times to get setup going, or you could do all of this below, and more which is probably fine I’m sure (if you wanted to do that.)

Summary

If you were a technician, you would want to follow the “Manufacturing Windows Engineering Guide (WEG)” (which you can find this on Google Search.) It would require you to capture an image, as well as provisioning packages, drivers (some would require siloed provisioning packages.) You may also have to create various answer files in XML format with the Windows ADK, boot into Audit mode, and then using sysprep to capture / apply answer files, some of which may create pending actions, that would require you to generalize the image, or to convert them to siloed provisioning packages, which could be applied in a specific order when the installation image completes the setup phases.

You would have to be careful about the order in which you go about this, due to any pending actions that would block any modification to the image until you actually boot it. This is also on top of utilizing any of the deployment lab sample scripts, modifying them to your liking (to automatically partition the drives, and apply the image you captured earlier to the device, via WIM, FFU, etc.)

Most in place upgrades that are not feature updates, will almost always break the apps themselves (in almost all situations, it would require you to repair or reset the apps.)

If you follow this method I posted above, you can activate it easily within the free upgrade period, without any mumbo jumbo or “information overloads.”

You do actually have to follow them in the same order that I listed here, it’s not random, or a series of fixes. After every update you have to finalize the image and remove superseded components with DISM (aka the “servicing stack.”)

Summary

It’s REALLY important to do this after a major revision update, even though there are scheduled tasks that might do this for you in the background (which would lag you a lot.) If you finalize the updates you can’t uninstall them, but it doesn’t actually matter. DISM and SFC will fetch any missing files if there is an issue.

Some people would be REALLY ANGRY if that step did not occur. It would have the potential to crash your computer in the middle of a game, such as World of Warcraft.

Summary

(A lot of problems would arise from avoiding this step, simply because you would have a hybrid of Windows 10 / 11 if your install process didn’t go smoothly.) This is NEARLY as good as doing a fresh install, less hassle also. The only difference is that it maintains some entries from Windows 10 registry hive, converts the rest, etc.

NOTE: If Blizzard utilized source code from the “Windows Pseudo Console (ConPTY),” (ConPTY API,) which is available on github, or the Windows Powershell SDK / create some type of host application, they would be able to build in functionality within the Battle.net App, to change file permissions if anything had been reverted accidentally (which would avoid the need for user scripts to solve the problem or anything deemed unacceptable by community standards, which may also in turn reduce the burden from false positives incurred due to mass reporting.) They could have Scan & Repair check the DACL on each file / folder, reset it if necessary to access the file (which may avoid more costly support fees, reduce stress on the servers in the way of increased bandwidth usage from re-downloading the same files over and over again.) This is a problem of course which is external to the game itself, but does have an impact.

18

Powershell only mounts the image virtually (within memory.) It’s dismounted after setup reboots the computer, does not require you to physically partition any drives.

Summary

The other information I provided about partitions, is just so that people know how to use binary prefixes (so they can avoid SI Prefixes, and get the exact file size they want.) All you need is windows calculator for that one (it’s not specifically for creating partitions either.)

I picked that solution simply because you don’t have to think about it in any way, other than copy/pasting things. I just picked the easiest, most simple way to do an in-place upgrade (it is actually difficult right now due to a number of issues with the PC Health App.) If you punch that stuff in like you were a parrot, it would work. I also used this to do my in-place upgrades.

Ironically, most other solutions would require you to overwhelm people with information. I spent a few weeks testing this in a dark room (working out every aspect of it, failures and all.) So of course I don’t want to live that out on anyone. Having carefully evaluated it, half a dozen steps in powershell is faster than almost any other method. These other scripts avoid all the pain and hassle of a major software revision update (which may seem as depressing, just as it is infuriating.) If you’re only exposed to this, it actually seems horrible. I could agree with that. I chose powershell just because it doesn’t require you to download a registry patch (almost everything I have listed here you can find on the Microsoft site, including that registry fix. All I did was just create a powershell script that does exactly what the documentation says to do. Microsoft has an article on it, though it tells you to use regedit or reg.) This is really just to get the install going, and avoid every single hiccup along the way, aside from corrupted DACLs / access control entries used to set file permissions, which of course can block the Battle.net app from being able to access its own files. Another issue I’ve run into on more than one occasion, but worse than these other ones as far as the time investment needed to fix the problem.

19

Absolutely not. The disk management method is done solely in GUI and gives you a partition to reinstall or repair Windows if needed. Much like how almost any name branded computer will have a recovery partition with an image+bloatware and the Windows reinstall ISO usually. There is no way to argue around this. Plus, if you wanted the easiest method, without leaving anything permanent on the drive, you’d just use the Windows upgrade tool.

No you don’t… Maybe multiple OS releases ago this was an issue, but going from Win10->Win11, that’s not the case unless you’ve got a bunch of 32 bit drivers and software on a 64 bit machine for absolutely no reason, when 64 bit hardware and OSes have been a thing for over 15 years…

EDIT: GASP! https://imgur.com/a/WCFJNnZ on a machine with a Windows 10 to 11 upgrade installation

But for real though, drop the condescension. Simply put, you’re wrong about all this being the best method of attack, in this situation, and are just parroting stuff you’ve heard in reddit/tech support threads, without actually questioning what or why you’re saying them; in order to sound like you know what you’re actually doing. It just comes off as and sounds like an ego trip.

I remember a college professor once said something along the lines of “Technically, you can throw calc at any almost any math problem if you want… But why would you do so, when you know a specific problem might have simpler approaches?”

Anyways, this thread is getting ultra derailed, we should get it back on topic I suppose.

20

I just gave out a solution that requires one step.

Summary

There’s your way, my way, and the right way. Your way does work too. I just chose the most simple solution, which is a single line of powershell code. It does not in any way mean you are wrong.

Shell scripts by nature are meant to be run in an environment which is entirely automated (without human intervention, hence “a parrot could do it.”)

Summary

Most of this stuff, believe it or not, is available on the Microsoft site. I just read the documentation and wrote my own scripts. You could do this too if you wanted.

DISM does not modify the drivers actually. You can use DISM to add drivers to an offline operating system image (you have to use PnPUtil for anything else.) The component store is entirely separate.

The scripts I have written here, rely on reference material from the official Microsoft documentation (which you can find on Google Search.)

Summary

Of course these scripts are not available on that site, but what I wrote was based on documentation I read from Microsoft on how to go about this process… It doesn’t allow me to share links btw, or I would have citations absolutely everywhere, even though I’ve just written unique scripts based on documentation for these particular commands.

If you’re wondering WHAT those are read below (I have a good explanation if you’re interested)…

Summary

It’s just a set of polynomials / binomials that are derived from source code in another program I wrote that generates bootable EFI partitions on Solaris 11.x, utilizing ZFS pools / root pools (utilizing the Distribution Constructor, which the documentation on this is also publicly available.) A Zpool by definition is a mirrored entity with two components (even if it is a single object.) These are mirrored arrays, which exist simply for the sake of fault tolerance, that require each pool to be aligned sector by sector (It’s like a glorified RAID calculator for Unix. I only took some small excerpts from this to make it work for Windows and Windows Subsystem for Linux / WSL2.) Fdisk unfortunately only allows you to select 512 byte sectors, and with 4K / 512e “Advanced Format” disks, you have to find a way around this, especially when you want all your partitions to be aligned and teach others to do the same.

NOTE: All that does is generate aligned partitions for Windows, via pen and paper, or notepad + windows calc. It’s somewhat like the C# functions I used to generate EFI partition layouts on nix for a command-line installer. I removed everything that was useless and just pasted it here, so it doesn’t do anything else. It just gives you a perfect number to use in diskpart or the MMC-snap-ins (such as the ones you described above.) I don’t write about any of that, because I don’t want to confuse the heck out of anyone. For me, the best solution seemed to be the one-liner that mounts the ISO image, and then you just click setup. Nobody needs to know all this, but you had asked me about why it was very simplistic.

My script does the exact same thing, but it relies on the ISO image to complete the in-place upgrade.

Summary

The reason why I chose this option, was because it was not only simple, but it was necessary to bypass the glitches in the My PC Health Check App. It will block your install for no good reason, and then edit the registry to block all future installs. You have to first delete that registry key, recreate it, and then add an entry to bypass the checks. It doesn’t always do this though, it’s a temporary issue.

Even if you had a valid TPM module that supports revision 2.x, and a 64-bit processor that was the functional equivalent of one in the OFFICIAL Windows 11 supported Intel / AMD / Qualcomm processors list, it will STILL block you, just because you have a different stepping / revision or SKU, etc. It’s a very quirky program. Microsoft has provided a workaround for this, which I found myself after reading the documentation. I’m not saying you should do this if you don’t have TPM 2.x support in some way, or a 64-bit processor. The OP posted their motherboard and processor on the forums. Their motherboard firmware does support this, so I suggested it right away, given I noticed this EXACT problem on my laptop (with nVidia drivers, which tend to be all-in-one installers, you will have mixed results with older GPUs anyways. It will have a front-end / configuration interface for Windows 11, and the driver itself will probably be barely any different.) I’m not saying that’s an issue, but they typically prioritize a Windows 11 update over Windows 10, and backport any code to legacy operating systems, regardless of what GPU it is (even though with the advent of the “DirectX 12 Agility SDK,” most updates for the DirectX Framework itself are OS-independent.) You could actually run Windows 10 without a TPM, but you wouldn’t be able to use bitlocker or some other things related to cryptographic services. In theory if you had an old 64-bit Processor from 2006 or something, you COULD run Windows 11 Home Edition (some functions in OpenSSL, PKCS#11 would not work properly, and you might have some problems with the certificate store, but in general it should work.) This was the same in Windows 10 anyways. You’d have to rely on 3rd party software-based encryption tools like VeraCrypt. IF that even mattered to begin with. I mean you would have to be fairly committed to this process, so much that you made up for it with 3rd party software and addons (not everyone would want to do that, I mean TPM modules / ICs, software TPMs, etc, have been around for quite some time. The fact that it’s mandatory doesn’t necessarily matter. My laptop with Hybrid UEFI / BIOS supports it, and it’s not at all a new laptop.)

Search for this on Google to find the list. I can’t link the page directly or I would: “Windows Processor Requirements ms docs”