Opinions on this used PC, is it worth it?

Thank you for the clarification Lilly.
I did a little digging around and sorta came to why you don’t recommend that psu (you did mention it in your post) and am aware that the s12 is higher than its usual price, but really just chalked to this year being an odd one. I usually have Rebates turned off so chances are the Corsair one wasn’t even on my radar.

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Speaking of PSUs…I will soon have a dubious Gigabyte 750W PSU that I got suckered into keeping.


What is the model number?

Reviews on newegg are less than stellar.

Gigabyte PSU

It was part of the 3070 combo I got that I ended up letting my friend get.

I only made him pay for the GPU part, IDK what I’ll do with this thing.

They let you return partial combo items at a reduced rate plus shipping. I might just return it I guess.

Looks like a more recent reddit thread on it:

Seems like a terrible unit

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I didn’t realize Aris made videos! When does he find time to sleep?

Sell it on ebay since it’s brand new, you won’t get a better price for it then right now. It’s not junk but definitely mediocre and over priced.

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The S12 was a very good platform for it’s time. The s12ii was also a good platform and received much fanfare for its price to performance (although a bit over hyped at times). I owned units on both platforms from various brands. The S12iii is basically Seasonic licensing their name to a half assed product.

I have an S12II 620w in my son’s PC. It’s fine 3 years later.

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I had the platform in a pc&p unit and the similar M12 platform in an Antec unit. The 550w units ran fine but I also had 650w versions of the same PSU and both suffered from coil whine which was not uncommon with them.

I guess I have to ask him if it makes noise lol

He hasn’t complained about anything except when I had the i3-8350k in it at 5ghz it would crash sometimes.

Yes, I should have tested it longer, but what did I care, it wasn’t my PC lol

Eventually got him an i5-9400 I got for $120 last year, and then got a cheap H310 for my daughter and just shoved the i3 into that for her to use at stock 4ghz speeds.

EDIT: He will be happy to probably get a Vega 64. That will be the real test of this PSU lol. That graphics card is a power sucker

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Well, I did have a corsair 450w, I have it on my email receipt from Newegg with the rest of my build, but I just cracked open my case and somehow I have ended up with an EVGA 550w n1 so now I have no idea how old the PSU is or when I replaced it or why. The last time I remember opening my pc to do work on it was when I replaced the gpu after my old one died about four years ago, but I replaced it with a used card because I was extremely broke at the time. Maybe I also replaced the psu at the time? It would have been a used PSU. I’m even more encouraged than ever to replace it now because I don’t know the age or history of this psu at all.

It’s an HEC special rated at just 25c, in other words the corsair 450w would have provided just as much power power and remained within spec. Remember most PC cases will be at 40c or higher so a low temp rated PSU that is poorly designed (almost goes hand in hand) will have a hard time reaching its max output or remain in spec (or both) in a hot box. I would start saving for a new PSU sooner rather than later.

I have no idea what any of that means but it doesn’t sound good lol. Thanks for the tip. I’ve always used Corsair in the past and I trust that brand so I’ll probably go with another Corsair.

Basically, when you push your PC parts in demanding tasks (like gaming) they use more power and create more heat. Your PC case can easily have a temperature inside of 40c or greater. PSU brands (such as Corsair and EVGA) will market their PSU to be able to deliver a certain level of power that is within ATX Power Supply spec at a certain temperature. Typically the advertised marketing temperature starts at 25c for the cheap units and works it way to 30c, 40c, and the top units state they can operate at 50c. As your case gets hotter, cheaper units will have a harder time delivering their full power (they may shut down if pushed too hard even if they don’t reach full stated max output) and/or their power delivery can be out of ATX spec resulting in your PC parts working inconsistently or even getting damaged.

That’s how a 550w unit rated at 50c (independently tested) can easily deliver 500w of power in your 45c gaming case while that 700w “future proof” unit rated at 25c starts causing your game to crash when pushed to the same 500w of power in the same case.

So let’s take your trusted brand Corsair as an example (a fine brand with excellent customer service although a bit pricey);

The VS line is rated at 30c
The CX line is rated at 40c
The RMx line is rated at 50c

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Oh wow I had no idea. I knew the cheaper PSUs were bad and used inferior parts but I didn’t know in what ways. That makes a lot of sense.