I’m pretty happy with 1440p for now, I’d rather have 144hz than nicer looking 60.
I’ll probably grab the 3070ti once that comes out and do a full system overhaul to make it work at peak performance. Just gotta pool some money for a few months x.x
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Gah. I just remembered I’m gonna have space issues trying to upgrade to any card that requires triple slots. I use an ITX rig. They really need to make ITX cases that support 3 slots these days.
Double the estimate? No. PCpartpicker is pretty accurate. Allow for some wiggle room, but nowhere near double. Just make sure you get/have a decent 80+ bronze rated PSU.
Same here I’ve been using the 970 lol. The 30 series will be a great upgrade for me
What do you mean my Diamond Monster 3D II is outdated ? The Abit BH6 is the best motherboard there is, I can clock that Celeron 300A to 450 mhz easy!
If you aren’t looking for ray tracing for WoW in SL, then look into a 1660 super. Especially if you just do 1080p 60hz. Though with the cost inflated due to demand, you might just throw a few more dollars at a 3000 series, if you PSU can handle it.
My Black Magic Voodoo 2 was good enough for Tribes, it’s good enough for WoW!
Descent II was the pinnacle of gaming.
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I mean, if you have 300W being used, you want a 600W+ PSU at minimum.
Overkill and not necessary unless you are future proofing for a reason.
That’s an awfully funny way of spelling ‘Command and Conquer’.
Future proofing seems like a smart play, considering the leap we’re charging into now.
Traitor! There’s a good reason we don’t have World of Command and Conquer.
Though Tesla coils would probably be banned in PvP.
Well, here’s a fun question then.
How often do you upgrade a PSU?
You want overhead. It’s exactly like a CPU – if you’re maxed out or running at 75% capacity, you’re stressing your hardware.
600W on a 300W rig means you aren’t stressing out the hardware. You want a reliable PSU with a solid rating, Gold at minimum. If you put good parts in your PC, you want an even better PSU so you don’t kill the more expensive parts.
An extra $50 to protect the $250 mobo, your $600+ GPU. Even the best cars need a reliable battery.
That’s not even considering overclocking. A 300W rig can easily pull 400W. So that 500W PSU is running hot – you’ll kill it faster.
I’ve never tried overclocking, some experts have told me the increase in performance is not worth the drastically reduced lifespan of your CPU or voided warranties, apparently overclocking one part in a PC voids the warranty of every other part connected to the same PC.
Granted you could say it was “company men” who told me that, so maybe some grains of salt should be taken with it.
It doesn’t work that way, at all.
They weren’t ‘experts’ if they said this. It wears your parts a little bit, but not to an extent that actually matters. You might lose a miniscule amount of longevity, but are you going to keep the same part for 5+ years where that would actually matter?
The whole shaker, my friend.
The reason cited was because overclocking the CPU or GPU puts heat strain and power strain on the entire PC, In amounts exceeding specifications.
Granted, if you try to call in a warranty, they probably cant tell you did some overclocking, but if they did find it it would void everything.
This really only applies if you buy the system from a vendor that gives you a warranty over the entire system (Dell, HP, Alienware, Acer). If you build your PC out of parts, each part has its own warranty and different vendor. MSI won’t bat an eye at replacing your 3070 RTX because you overclocked your AMD CPU.
They have no way of knowing. But if you straight up told them you did that, you might encounter difficulties.
Your typical Intel chip will typically support a “CPU Boost” – it’s basically the same thing, but rather than dynamically adjusting speeds, your CPU runs at a frequency you manually determine. (“XMP” - Extreme Memory Profile.)
My 8700K can boost to 4.2GHz iirc. But I can overclock to 5.0GHz and be very stable (24hr test @ 5.0GHz) – I couldn’t keep 5.2GHZ for more than 8 hours :C
Anyway, I am overclocking my CPU to 4.4GHz, though the base clock speed to 3.7GHz iirc.
Rather than dynamically adjusting the speeds between 3.7-4.2GHz, I’m holding steady at 4.4GHz, and it’s hardly taxing my CPU’s hardware.
Voiding the warranty is when you do more hardcore stuff, like de-lidding the CPU. (the part of the CPU that your heatsink and thermal paste touches is a cover.) De-lidding a CPU is never recommended unless you know what you’re doing. A $500 CPU getting a scratch will ruin it and you’ll void the warranty. But the temperature differences are amazing.
Overclocking in general isn’t tough. Many motherboards will do it for you. Just tell it you want 5.0GHz and it’ll do most of the work. But CPUs can be amazing, or duds – my CPU is stable at 5.0GHz, and someone else might have their same CPU hold 5.2GHz.
